This year, Patek took one Steel reference, and just gave us another; BUT.... not quite
I am personally a fan of stainless steel watches - just because they are very understated, easy to wear, unpretentious and generally unblingy. You can enjoy them whenever and wherever, without having to worry about being noticed or pretentious (generally).
Patek just announced the release of flyback Chrono with Annual Calendar in stainless steel and on bracelet reference 5905/1a.
There's no integrated bracelet, but it has all the aesthetics and looks of core Patek Philippe watch. While there's been a debate of Patek slowly killing their Steel references in favour of precious metal references, which does align with their objectives to enjoy their privilege that Patek Philippe carry, this is an interesting release, particularly because its on a steel bracelet too.
The first thing I have noticed after seeing the bracelet was, "oh Crab... that's the same Aquanaut bracelet. I mean, really?
I dont like to keep the thought very subjective, but I have to say, as I said before, this is the ugliest bracelet of any Haute Horology and Holy trinity watches I have seen and come across. I mean, it doesn't even look haute Horology. Until the day this bracelet tapers down towards the clasp, this is a wrong bracelet - no questions asked.
The size is 42mm which I think is not quite bad, but its not ideal, and then the thickness of close to 14.5mm.. it is a substantial watch, which isn't bad thing as such as many people prefer watches with heft and substance on the wrist. Given the thickness and the size, I will probably say that this is now a sports watch, but then I look at water resistance which is 30 meters, so again, I am lost as to what category do I fit this watch into? Dressy or sports?
The dial being green adds flavour and I do believe it will make it much sought after too, but I think if Patek had done this watch with the same bracelet as the 5960/1A, it might have worked better.
I am glad it is priced at $80K (AUD) so I dont have to worry about buying it, but I can easily imagine why it will still be a very right watch for many.
I just hope Patek dont take the same approach as AP are taking i.e. buy a code 11.59 to get a Royal Oak. Or did Patek actually start this culture?
I dont get it though. Why to make a wrong watch, to be able to sell the right watch? Why can't you just make two right watches and sell to their market? Make it small, make it slim, make it wearable.. its pretty simple... NOT.
What are your thought with the new Patek releases from today?